A judging eye on Milan

Fantastic Man's very own Gert Jonkers wearing his stars and stripes outside the Ermenegildo Zegna show.

Seeing as the last post was a long rant of a post, I thought I'd offer something a little lighter. As I try and arrange an agreeable time with Thom for our Milan discussion, I am still refraining from posting about the shows themselves (although that makes it sound like they were really exciting when you all know that they weren't!) so instead I will continue to comment on the street style. I have searched the net for the best street style shots of the events in Milan but the Sartorialist's blog on men.style still offers the best by far (if you've come across anything of note, please do let me know).

These two chaps above are two of my favourites.

As I cast my judging eye over the happenings over in Milan I would like to award Ermenegildo Zegna as attracting best dressed crowd. The show itself had far too much camel for my tastes (I guess it made a nice change from all that grey) but the crowd were far better dressed. Apparently, this tailored clothing powerhouse wants to be known as more than just a maker of luxury textiles and banker suits and it certainly attracts a different crowd. Well done Ermenegildo.

A Nation of Shopkeepers?

Source

Over the last week most of our attention has been focused on the goings on over in Milan and now Paris...Charlie Porter has notified us via his Twitter that the YSL presentation is his favourite show thus far so I am desperate to see the first lot of images (update: now up on Dazed Digital). Despite the fashion week activity I have also been contemplating the other side of the business, retail. Even the collections themselves were deeply affected by the current state of the world economy...the recession wasn't hinted at but instead the shows almost screamed panic due to the state of affairs...which sends a warning signal to the rest of the industry. I am torturing myself by watching and reading the news...as the doom and gloom seems to be getting darker by the day...which leads me to thinking about the business side of men's style.

However much Tyler Brûlé frustrates me, he frequently covers the topics that interest me and within his Observation column in Monocle he talks about playing shop. I visited the Monocle shop in November last year and at just nine square metres in size (it is only a touch larger than my childhood bedroom which only allowed my bed, a small television set and my Sega Mega Drive) the space has been beautifully designed and furnished so it feels welcoming and feels so homely. After over two months of trading Tyler Brûlé feels there is a core of consumers who are looking for a more personal, hands on approach to minding a shop. I couldn't agree more! My favourite shops are the ones which have a strong but friendly and welcoming ownership. bstore which is now in it's seventh year has gone from strength to strength and this can only be down to the vision, drive and commitment of the two owners, Kirk Beattie and Matt Murphy (and maybe a little luck). We featured parts of an insightful interview Matt Murphy gave with Ponystep and I have to admit that I re-read this from time to time and it inspires me...Another prime example of how a shop owner should be is Daniel Jenkins who has single-handedly put Monmouth (a small town in Wales, population 8407) on the men's style map and is always buying in great menswear. As mentioned on the blog previously, I met up with Dan at the last MAN show and this guys passion and knowlege for menswear is in my experience unparalleled...and over a beer before the show he was taking calls from designers and customers alike. I just wish more store owners shared these attributes but they really are few and far between.

In a recent interview with BUCK, Creative Director of oki-ni, John Skelton, predicts that 'there is going to be a real return to the independent retail mentality of old, where small/independent stores will make their money by offering something different.' Over the last year or two, we have certainly seen a number of retailers, large and small, offering emerging menswear talent and I hope this continues into 2009 and beyond. There is undoubtedly a market, where people like myself, are eager to buy designs from recent graduates and small fashion teams but this market is certainly not the safe option: the demise of London-based fashion concept store twosee which showcased avant-garde designers but is unfortunately closing it's doors at the end of this month is testament to the difficulties. The Shop At Bluebird (even the website is down) used to be a favourite of mine and I managed to pick up a number of pieces from emerging design talent but in recent visits I have become frustrated by the 'safe' Buying, there is no longer a place for brands like Unconditional and Omar Kashoura, they have been replaced by much more established brands. Yawn.

The UK used to be dubbed as the nation of shopkeepers but in recent years the landscape has changed from busy, bustling stores to empty and even boarded up stores. I can honestly count the number of exciting stores in London using my fingers. Tyler Brûlé mentions how Japan's lost decade was the catalyst for the rise of a new. super talented merchant class that kept the retail scene buoyant despite the dire state of the economy. Let's hope that one positive outcome of the recent troubling economic times will be a new breed of shop keepers. It would be great if the UK could be crowned as the nation of menswear shopkeepers.

There is a lot that could be said on this subject so I feel that this is only the beginning. I would like to hear your thoughts thoughts though....What in your eyes makes a good menswear store? What would you like to see store owners do in the year ahead and beyond?

New MUST-HAVE Of This Season. The Moast Fashionable Print.

An imitation of feathers and fur seem like the new fashion trend of comming season. This print we can see at many collections of the modernest designers and modellers. Such as Giambattista Valli and Dolce & Gabbana that show fluffy fur patterns. Alena Akhmadullina and Alexander McQueen show beautiful 3-D feathers prints.

What can we say? It is really beautiful and extremelly up-to-date. Besides, The Green Peace must be enthusiastic about it!

OPTICAL ILLUSION is a New Must-Have of This Season!

FashionBinge Lust/ Must: Studded Mocs

($266, Bess, Oak)

Normally I'd be all over these pyramid-studded suede mocs, but a.) they're outta my price rangeage, b.) they're for guys, c.) they're from Bess, which is the kinda Soho store you walk into and you're like only Cokey stylists shop here. And then you leave really quickly.

+ More pix at WilliamYan
+ More pyramid stud stuff here.

Eager for a Werther's Original from Bond

OK, I should warn you in advance that this is a slightly strange post but welcome to the inner thoughts of my odd, little mind....I picked up the latest issue of Monocle earlier this evening and as I was flicking through the pages somewhat excitedly over my Mocha in a crowded coffee chain I encountered the sight of an old friend on the back cover. Sean Connery is the second grandad I've always wished I had so it is always nice to see him now and again. Here he stars in the new Louis Vuitton ad shot by Annie Leibovitz and tonight was the first time that I've seen it. I have grown up with the best James Bond ageing very well indeed whilst he starred in some great films and a number of bad ones. In the shot taken close to his Bahamas home, Connery is the picture of masculine cool - I wish I look this good when I reach 78. Mr. Connery if you are reading this, you can give me a Werther's Original anytime.

FashionBinge Giveaway: Win A Chloe & Jane Perfect Spa Set, 'Kay?

I don't know about you, but right now, the skin on certain parts of my body could pass for sandpaper. Like, I could file my nails on this sadness. Therefore, Chloe & Jane have been coming to my rescue with their expert line of bath products -- my VERY favorite is the First Bloom body lotion, which has excellent waxy-but-not-greasy properties.

But you don't care about me. Let's get to you -- enter to win a Chloe & Jane complete Perfect Spa set, including a full-sized body butter, body polish, and body wash in your choice of Lavender Sage, First Bloom (faves!), or Citrus Chamomile.

Just enter below -- you have until 6pm EST on January 28, 2009 -- and tell me whether you live at the spa (lucky!) or take a three-minute shower (efficient, but possibly gross!)

Polaroid Is Saved!

(Image via: CollectorsQuest.com)

Good news, Polaroid enthusiasts! An Austrian business dude purchased the Polaroid factory in Amsterdam, and, along with Ilford, is creating new analog Polaroid film for old-school instant cameras! The name of the project is "The Impossible Project."

Here's what their site, well-designed, of course, has to say:

We aim to re-start production of analog INTEGRAL FILM for vintage Polaroid cameras in 2010. We have acquired Polaroid's old equipment, factory and seek your support.

Polaroid is transforming itself from an analog Instant Film Production Company to a global Consumer Electronics and Digital Imaging company.

Production of analog Instant Film stopped in June 2008, closing the factories in Mexico (Instant Packfilm production) and the Netherlands (Instant Integral production).

Impossible b.v. has been founded with the concrete aim to re-invent and re-start production of analog INTEGRAL FILM for vintage Polaroid cameras. Therefore Impossible b.v. has acquired the complete film production equipment in Enschede (NL) from Polaroid, has signed a 10-year lease agreement on the factory building; and has engaged the most experienced team of Integral Film experts worldwide.

The Impossible mission is NOT to re-build Polaroid Integral film but (with the help of strategic partners) to develop a new product with new characteristics, consisting of new optimised components, produced with a streamlined modern setup. An innovative and fresh analog material, sold under a new brand name that perfectly will match the global re-positioning of Integral Films.

... And one of my favorite '90s chick-folk "jams," -- Shawn Colvin, "Polaroids."