Because for a second there, I thought you were serious...
Monday, July 20, 2009
Friday, July 17, 2009
Sneak peak at Carolyn Massey SS10
Carolyn Massey has always been a Style Salvage favourite and it has been great to see her develop her label over the last few seasons to become one of the most significant menswear designers in the UK. This is going to be a huge year for her and deservedly so. She closed the extended menswear afternoon back in February in true style with her first solo show and since then has been beavering away on an her SS10 collection, not to mention her Topman Lens designs and various other projects! After being offered a closer look of her AW09 designs and her studio back in March she allowed me to nosey around her studio whilst salivating over her SS10 collection. The tailoring pieces weren't quite finished yet but there was more than enough to keep my eyes busy, as Carolyn added printed t shirts and additional accessories including handmade braided belts and amazing backpacks. I asked Carolyn about her inspirations for this collection and she kindly sent through the below images. She was inspired by adventure and exploration. For me the season is all about escaping the mundanity of everyday life and exploring far away lands...or beaches in Kent (in my case, ha!).I was privileged to have this sneak preview of the future and even more fortuitous to be able to pick Carolyn's brain as I marvelled over her wares. Below is my exploration of her the SS10 offering and I've added quotes from the lady herself which explain her thoughts and guidance on the pieces.
I couldn't stop taking pictures of the amazing accessories, the braided belts and the backpacks were amazing!On the handmade, braided belts...
"The pieces that you photographed are based on 'Troddels' - traditionally used by the German army (post war) to place with precision the exact whereabouts of soldiers in particular regiments. Also the Japanese craft of Kumihimo was definitely an inspiration for the brading. This featured in the key rings, troddels and belts."
"The pieces that you photographed are based on 'Troddels' - traditionally used by the German army (post war) to place with precision the exact whereabouts of soldiers in particular regiments. Also the Japanese craft of Kumihimo was definitely an inspiration for the brading. This featured in the key rings, troddels and belts."
I fell head over heels for the chunky, cable knits in Massey's Aw09 collection and the above table of bold blue knitted creations renewed my love. Carolyn once again worked closely with her knitwear consultant Lynn to create these pieces which looked to be inspired by fishermen and explorers.
On the accessories:
"The accessories came about as a store that I work with mentioned that his customers would love to see some bags and belts from me, and I work with a really good factory that also makes these, so I thought I'd try this and see how they would be received. Its also went in so well with the inspiration for the collection- the film the Heroes of Telemark - based on the true story of Norwegian heavy water sabotage in WW2. Id also recently been on a camping trip to Dungeness, and this inspiring thinking of realistically when and where you would wear these garments. Gave them a sense of grounding, of place."
"The accessories came about as a store that I work with mentioned that his customers would love to see some bags and belts from me, and I work with a really good factory that also makes these, so I thought I'd try this and see how they would be received. Its also went in so well with the inspiration for the collection- the film the Heroes of Telemark - based on the true story of Norwegian heavy water sabotage in WW2. Id also recently been on a camping trip to Dungeness, and this inspiring thinking of realistically when and where you would wear these garments. Gave them a sense of grounding, of place."
On expanding the collection for this season:
"I've expanded the collection quite a lot this season, as showing on the catwalk was very inspiring, thinking about the whole offer of the collection. I did some T shirt styles also, which were quite fun to do, thinking about placement print- collages from found images."
The outwear on show was truly special. A featherlight trench came in bold blue and for me is the perfect everyday jacket for the season. Even on the warmest of days in fair Blighty, there is a constant threat of the odd downpour. I've been looking for a similar trench for some time, thankfully I won't have to look next year! The most surprising piece for me was the multi option hoodie/jacket hybrid which came in the sturdy waxed cotton. I described it as multi option purely because features like additional pockets, straps and even a backpack can be added to this utility jacket.
"I've expanded the collection quite a lot this season, as showing on the catwalk was very inspiring, thinking about the whole offer of the collection. I did some T shirt styles also, which were quite fun to do, thinking about placement print- collages from found images."
The outwear on show was truly special. A featherlight trench came in bold blue and for me is the perfect everyday jacket for the season. Even on the warmest of days in fair Blighty, there is a constant threat of the odd downpour. I've been looking for a similar trench for some time, thankfully I won't have to look next year! The most surprising piece for me was the multi option hoodie/jacket hybrid which came in the sturdy waxed cotton. I described it as multi option purely because features like additional pockets, straps and even a backpack can be added to this utility jacket.
On the amazing jacket above:
"The "multi option jacket" (I love this - makes it sound so sci-fi!) we call the paracoat. I collect garments that are of interest, mostly army/navy/RAF- and this was inspired by a coat which I actually don't have any idea where it is from. It had a detachable bag on it which just seemed a bit bonkers as an idea, so I ran with it."
The collection was undoubtedly inspired by spending the so-called warmer months in the great outdoors. The pieces come together to offer protection and function whatever the weather whilst colour, including mustard yellow and rich blues, is splashed throughout to create a collection to truly covet. I will soon be leaving London for the weekend to have another trip by the Kentish seaside, looking at the forecast for the next few days, my suitcase would most certainly be improved with a few pieces from this collection.
"The "multi option jacket" (I love this - makes it sound so sci-fi!) we call the paracoat. I collect garments that are of interest, mostly army/navy/RAF- and this was inspired by a coat which I actually don't have any idea where it is from. It had a detachable bag on it which just seemed a bit bonkers as an idea, so I ran with it."
The collection was undoubtedly inspired by spending the so-called warmer months in the great outdoors. The pieces come together to offer protection and function whatever the weather whilst colour, including mustard yellow and rich blues, is splashed throughout to create a collection to truly covet. I will soon be leaving London for the weekend to have another trip by the Kentish seaside, looking at the forecast for the next few days, my suitcase would most certainly be improved with a few pieces from this collection.
When you're a boy opens
Iconic Foxton images taken from FTape article.I had to leave London on Wednesday for a couple of days to pay my respects to my old nan who passed away at the tender age of ninety five. The outside world unfortunately didn't stop with me and I missed out the chance to be shot by the Sartorialist as part of a Burberry promotion (there should be further opportunities if I follow the flow chart) along with the opening of Simon Foxton's When you're a boy exhibition at the Photographer's Gallery (fortunately Susie did and she has confirmed what I thought, it is amazing!). The exhibition celebrates men in fashion and is the first exhibitions to focus on the work of a stylist as opposed to a photographer.
With a career spanning three decades, Foxton has built himself a reputation as a leading image-maker of men’s fashion; anticipating and defining key shifts in menswear design over this period. Foxton's interest in masculinity, ethnicity and sexuality are captured in images shot by photographers and longtime collaborators Alistair Mclellan, Nick Knight and Jason Evans.
After graduating from St. Martin's College of Art and Design in 1983, he set up his own design label, Bazooka. Foxton began styling for i-D in 1984, at a time when the visual language of fashion photography was still being established. Since then he has contributed to our favourite magazines including The Face, Arena, Arena Homme Plus, Vogue Hommes International, Details, W, GQ Style and Big Magazine. Without his work, the magazines that we know and love would certainly not be the same. Foxton evolved a highly recognisable and much emulated approach to creating fashion photography which balances a deep respect for traditional men’s fashion design with an injection of street culture, popular imagery and much needed humour. He is quite simply the quintessential menswear stylist, consistently progressing men’s fashion.
Although I missed out on the opening night, I did however get the chance to ask the great stylist a question, albeit through the wonderful Fred Butler. Fred asked for question contributions via her twitter and I made sure that I didn't miss my chance. The full interview can and should be read here but for now, here is the question I asked along with the answer:
"Ive read that you keep a box under your bed for inspiration containing tear outs from magazines. How do you formulate your ideas from these scraps?"
I can now confirm that this is the case. Simon doesn't believe in stacking up smelly old back issues and prefers to make a more considered and concise reference bank. If an image resonates with him, it winds up ripped out and glued in. These scrapbooks are a personal vehicle to consolidate his own vision, affirming his taste and form a reminder of ideas and direction. Curator Penny Martin got involved from trawling this primary starting point, all the way through to ordering the space at The Photographer's Gallery. The two of them rooted through the archive boxes and Penny assertively assisted Simon to weed out the cream of the crop for this first show. According to Simon there is a great more to be exhibited but it could not be accommodated this time.
Dazed Digital recently published a nice interview with Simon and included some amazing images of the stylists shed where his ideas are formulated. I need a shed just like this, the quality of blog posts would surely improve if I had my own inspiration filled hideway...
Wednesday, July 15, 2009
Daniel Jenkins Sale Promotion for all readers
We soon became friends with Daniel Jenkins after we interviewed him about his store in deep, dark Wales and heard how he wanted to change the shopping experience and offerings for men. His Grade II listed building in Monmouth provides a home for exciting, emerging British designers like Lou Dalton and Satyenkumar whilst offering a number classic pieces from Ally Capellino, Stansfield and YMC. To help us celebrate our redesign, Dan has offered a discount of 15% to all Style Salvage readers on his sale items for the next 48 hours. Below are just a few of things we have our eye on ourselves...

Sunday Best Tailoring:
Stanfield Zip Engineers Jacket: This navy waxed cotton jacket is another classic piece by Dominic Stansfield.
Stansfield Cotton Canvas Blazer: 100% canvas blazer with contrast trim and royal blue lining.
Stansfield Patchwork Railroad Jacket: This jacket is based on tradtional railroad jackets and is simply awesome!
Summer Tops:
and i nylon t shirt: Directional piece from a hard to find designer, perfect for the warmer days we are all craving.
Raf Simons x Fred Perry Polo: This was the standout piece from the SS09 collection and if you wish you bought it earlier wwhy not take advantage of the sale.
Summer Essentials:
Ally Capellino Walker Bag: Super soft matt hide leather bag.
YMC Suede High Tops: Tan suede high tops with waxed laces and white toe cap.
In order to use it you need to sign in to your basket and enter the code 'style salvage' in the box provided. If anyone is having any problems with it then they can contact Dan @ daniel@danieljenkins.co.uk and he'll sort it out for you. Happy sale shopping!
Stansfield Cotton Canvas Blazer: 100% canvas blazer with contrast trim and royal blue lining.
Stansfield Patchwork Railroad Jacket: This jacket is based on tradtional railroad jackets and is simply awesome!
Summer Tops:
and i nylon t shirt: Directional piece from a hard to find designer, perfect for the warmer days we are all craving.
Raf Simons x Fred Perry Polo: This was the standout piece from the SS09 collection and if you wish you bought it earlier wwhy not take advantage of the sale.
Summer Essentials:
Ally Capellino Walker Bag: Super soft matt hide leather bag.
YMC Suede High Tops: Tan suede high tops with waxed laces and white toe cap.
In order to use it you need to sign in to your basket and enter the code 'style salvage' in the box provided. If anyone is having any problems with it then they can contact Dan @ daniel@danieljenkins.co.uk and he'll sort it out for you. Happy sale shopping!
Mary Katrantzou Surreal Trompe L'oeil Dress
I have NO fucking idea what exactly is going on. Is it human? Dancer? Photo? X-ray? Sexy robot? Will it hurt? Will it hurt a lot? I don't know. I just know I want in. I also kind of want to see it on an actual body. Preferably my own.
+ Like this? Check out Tsumori Chisato.
Speaking of robotics, this kind of reminds me of the dress version of one of my FAVORITE songs of the past year -- Robyn and Royksopp's "The Girl And The Robot."
+ Like this? Check out Tsumori Chisato.
Speaking of robotics, this kind of reminds me of the dress version of one of my FAVORITE songs of the past year -- Robyn and Royksopp's "The Girl And The Robot."
Marc By Marc Jacobs Grey And Green Boots
($490, Marc By Marc Jacobs, Yoox.com)I know these Marc By Marc Jacobs grey leather boots are sorta wackadoo, but I love them so much I'd sleep in and/or WITH them. The only thing that would make them better is if they had an actual fish inside, like the pimp shoes in I'm Gonna Get You Sucka.
Shopping at Rue La La
For those who are not aware of Rue La La, it is an exclusive online store that offers private sales to its members. Here you can find the must-have fashion clothes and accessories for men and women.

Don't think twice, "just get in and get fabulous"!
Click this calendar to view the store's schedule for this week:

Don't think twice, "just get in and get fabulous"!
Click this calendar to view the store's schedule for this week:
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