Sunday, January 4, 2009

2009 is the year I wake up to denim

Ever since my eyes were assaulted by a number of ill fitting all denim ensembles as I was growing up (images of Bon Jovi and more recently that picture of Britney and Justin wearing matching denim ensembles still haunt me to this day) so I tend to avoid denim. This fear has meant the only part denim has played in my wardrobe is to provide a few pairs of that icon of popular culture which are jeans...and nothing more. Over the years I have embarked on a number of quests to find the perfect pair of jeans, trying every manufacturer and style that I could get my hands on which has resulted in me drawing the conclusion that (in terms of menswear at least) there is little worse than shopping for this particular staple...If you are interested I fell in love with the french label APC two years ago now and wear little else because they fit me perfectly, although Uniqlo provide colourful alternatives which should not be overlooked. On the whole, when it comes to denim, despite a number of brands creating interesting denim creations I have let my preconceptions cloud my better judgement and ultimately I have not given this classic yet ever popular fabric the attention and imagination that it deserves. The time for change is now.

A number of Spring Summer 09 look books combined with a well written and image sourced piece within the latest issue of BUCK (which is in my opinion the best yet and will be reviewed later this week) have only heightened the intensity of the light bulb which hovers cartoon like above my head...denim offers more than mere jeans and should be celebrated and worn with gusto this Spring and beyond. The below collages show just some of the denim pieces, including shirts, backpacks and even jeans, which have made me open my eyes to this versatile and stylish fabric...


(Please click on the images to see them in all their glory and to save yourself squinting...)

The collages document a number of pieces from a variety of brands but hopefully they show my newly found admiration for denim. There are a few pieces which warrant more attention so I've picked out a few collections to give a little more information...

I've already noted on the blog how the Lanvin x Acne collaboration made me see denim in a different light so it should be no surprise that it features heavily here. Within this collection denim was used to create a relaxed formal and all round effortless style where rich textures and fabrics were used in a subtle combinations with denim. We saw deconstructed blazers and double breasted jackets teamed with denim shorts and loose fitting trousers, in a variety of hues (from my favourite indigo to that Spring favourite pale blue).

During Amsterdam Fashion Week, the first edition of the Amsterdam Denim Award was unanimously given to Eric Lebon. The Jury members which included Diane Pernet (A Shaded View on Fashion), Mr Yuji Yamasaki (buyer Beams Japan) and the Austrian designers Helga Schania and Hermann Fankhauser (Wendy&Jim) had the following to say: "Lebon creates a complete image which – as far as the silhouette and the use of denim are concerned – is innovative, yet comprehensible."

The work of Latvian artists and designers Mārīte Mastiņa and Rolands Pēterkops (both graduates of the Design and Art School of Riga) under the denim line MRJeans was recently featured on DazedDigital and StyleBubble and the combination of the surreal (both in terms of the photography and in the pieces themselves) with the basic has really left an impression. Jackets have asymmetrical cuts, innovative details are added to denim trousers whilst checked shirts have multiple collars layered one on top of the other that create a multi-structured effect

I've seen glimpses of the next instalment of the Raf Simons x Eastpak collaboration and the denim pieces are wonderful...overpriced but wonderful. I'm torn on the backpack because for me this is one of the best accessories that I've seen for some time but because it is essentially an Eastpak backpack (which were bought as widely affordable schoolbags in my youth), I don't think I can suppress the shrieks of pain and disbelief brought about at the £200 price tag...Away from the Eastpak collaboration Raf Simons has been experimenting with denim for both Jil Sander (as reported on WWD) and his very own Raf by Raf Simons label. The BUCK article showcased a couple pairs of dyed and bleached jeans from the Raf by Raf Simons (which I couldn't track down online) and have instilled a strong desire to replicate something similar by purchasing a cheap pair of red Uniqlo jeans and playing with bleach...as soon as I get my act together I will give it a go and let you see the results...

In summary, there can be little doubt that jeans are a true staple, Yves Saint Laurent once remarked; "I have often said that I wish I had invented blue jeans: the most spectacular, the most practical, the most relaxed and nonchalant. They have expression, modesty, sex appeal, simplicity - all I hope for in my clothes." In my mind, up until recently at least, denim equals jeans and little else. Judging by its inclusion in a significant number of SS09 shows and look books we will be seeing a lot more of denim in the coming months. Previously, this might have scared me but now I am eager to experiment with this great fabric.

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