Saturday, May 16, 2009

VMAN and Leyendecker's vision of manhood

Mattias (left) wears a suit and shirt by Gucci, Tie by Ermenegildo Zegna, shoes by Jil Sander and vintage hat from What Comes Around Goes Around. Mattias wears a suit by Bottega Veneta, shirt by J.Presss, shoes by Emporio Armani and hat by Burberry Prorsum.

The Legends of the Fall editorial from the latest issue of VMAN has certainly caught the attention of the blogosphere and rightfully so because it really is something. It has captured my imagination more than anything my eyes have focussed on these past few months. The classic tailored suits, iconic sportswear and military-inspired pieces shot here by Kaiser Lagerfeld hark back to the sumptuous illustrations by J.C. Leyendecker. Leyendecker's name was not familiar to me before I cam across this editorial but his illustrations certainly were. Leyendecker's work depicts sartorial elegance, patrician demeanor, a certain frostiness, and an identifiable masculinity.

Leyendecker is best known for his creation of the archetype of the fashionable American male with his advertisements for Arrow Collar. Leyendecker’s Arrow Collar Man—a mascot for the menswear company Cluett, Peabody & Co.—became one of first real advertising campaigns and produced the first sex symbol of either gender. In a campaign lasting twenty-five years, Leyendecker portrayed an archetypal American masculinity that was equal parts football hero and urbane man-about-town.

Whether clutching a briar pipe or guiding a winsome debutante across the dance floor, the Arrow Collar Man embodied a vision of American manhood that was both rugged and refined—every woman’s dream. The VMAN shoot as styled by the wonderful Jay Massacret and shot by Largerfeld certainly taps in to this same vision of American masculinity. If these images were being used to try and sell me something then I have no doubt they would succeed. I will leave you with the rest of the delightful editorial to savour and enjoy...

Brian (left) wears sweater by Adam Kimmel, socks by Polo Ralph Lauren, baseball pants, boots and helmut all vintage from What Comes Around Goes Around. Travis wears jackets and hat by DSquared, trousers by Woolrich Woolen Mills, shoes Bottega Veneta and socks by Polo Ralph Lauren.

Antonio (left) wears suit by Tom Ford, shirt by Brioni, bow tie by Dolce & Gabbana. Baptiste wears suit and shirt by Dolce & Gabbana, bow tie by Thomas Pink and gloves by LaCrasia.

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